AKIKO YAMASAKI
/Toyokuni Shrine (Senjokaku)・Tano-oka Chaya
After getting off the ferry and walking towards Itsukushima Shrine, you'll see a prominent building on a small hill! This is the Great Scripture Hall, which Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered to be built in Tensho 15 (1587) for the purpose of commemorating war dead and reciting a thousand Buddhist sutras. Due to Hideyoshi's sudden death, construction was halted, and it is said that the wallboards and ceiling boards were never installed, leaving it unfinished to this day. When you take off your shoes and step inside, oh, it's vast! With hardly any walls, an incredibly open space unfolds before you. Because it's as spacious as 857 tatami mats, it's also known as "Senjokaku".

Originally a Great Scripture Hall (Buddhist temple), after the Shinbutsu Bunri (separation of Shinto and Buddhism) order, the Buddhist statues inside were moved to Daiganji Temple. Currently, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Kato Kiyomasa are enshrined here.

After your visit, be sure to walk around the spacious shrine hall. It's full of highlights: giant ladles are dedicated, a large measuring stick (used for construction when rebuilding the Great Torii) is displayed, and the ceiling is adorned with numerous ema votive tablets and Eto Ehoban (zodiac direction boards)... Looking at the magnificent architecture and valuable exhibits, you can feel the profound depth of Miyajima's history.


And what you absolutely mustn't miss is the view from the shrine hall, offering a panoramic sight of Itsukushima Shrine, the Five-story Pagoda, and the Seto Inland Sea! You can enjoy the seasonal nature with cherry blossoms in spring and ginkgo in autumn, but personally, I recommend the fresh greenery from spring to summer. The dazzling green reflecting on the floor is breathtakingly beautiful. Another charm is that because there are no wallboards, the breeze flows through smoothly. Why not take a break from your travels and spend some relaxing time basking in this pleasant natural air conditioning?

After visiting Toyokuni Shrine, head to "Tano-oka Chaya," a sweet shop right next door. Its traditional appearance, like something out of a historical drama, is irresistible.


Their specialty is Chikara Mochi (600 yen), said to have been offered to the carpenters by Hideyoshi when he ordered the construction of the Great Scripture Hall. Also known as "Taikō no Chikara Mochi," it is Miyajima's oldest sweet, believed to have been eaten over 400 years ago. It's a simple snack featuring homemade, chewy mochi dusted with kinako (roasted soybean flour) and sugar, with a gentle sweetness that fills your mouth. It's as if energy mysteriously wells up... Try a bite while imagining the carpenters of that era.

[DATA]
■Toyokuni Shrine (Senjokaku)
Address: 1-1 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City
TEL: 0829-44-2020
Viewing Hours: 8:30 AM - 4:30 PM
Closed: None
Admission Fee: 100 yen for high school students and older, 50 yen for elementary and junior high school students
■Tano-oka Chaya
Address: 419 Omachi, Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City
TEL: 0829-44-2455
Opening Hours: 10:00 AM - 4:30 PM
Closed: Irregular